Whether you’re in New York or social media, fashion is a constant conversation. For Tia Adeola, her journey from Nigeria to the forefront of the fashion scene exemplifies the intersection of culture and creativity. With her eponymous label, she has become a prominent voice in fashion, celebrated for her ruffled designs that reflect her heritage.
“I’ve wanted to be a designer since I was about ten years old,” Adeola tells GU. Growing up in Nigeria, she interned with her aunt, a fashion designer, which laid the foundation for her lifelong passion. “It was never about being cool on Instagram; it was just something I knew I wanted to do.”
In her early collections, Adeola’s designs prominently featured ruffles, a motif inspired by her deep-rooted fascination with art history, particularly the opulence of the Renaissance. “When I first started, my designs were characterized by large, dramatic ruffles,” she recalls. “They were not just aesthetic choices; each ruffle represented something deeper, reflecting status and identity, much like how they were used in the 16th-century Spanish dress.”
Adeola explains that her love for ruffles stems from her research while writing her dissertation on this historical garment. “Ruffles were a sign of importance; the bigger your ruffle, the more status you had. I found that idea compelling,” she shares. As her career has evolved, so too has her interpretation of this signature element. “I’ve transitioned from oversized ruffles to more intricate designs,” she says, referencing her recent Ruffle World collection, which showcases delicate trims and modern silhouettes.
“Now, my ruffles are more about layering and texture,” Adeola elaborates. “They embody a bold femininity that resonates with contemporary fashion while still paying homage to my roots.” This evolution reflects not only her growth as a designer but also her desire to create pieces that empower women. The ruffles, now more refined and intricate, continue to be a hallmark of her brand, inviting wearers to embrace their individuality and express their own unique stories.
Adeola’s breakthrough moment came during the “fashion renaissance” in 2020, when many Black designers received significant recognition during the Black Lives Matter movement, and Black and Brown workers having their voices heard from the workplace to the streets. The Tia Adeola brand hit a major boom having placements in ESSENCE and Vogue, showing at Paris Fashion Week and even collaborated with Nike. While she appreciated the spotlight, she candidly expressed concerns about the performative nature of the industry’s support. “The recognition was lovely, but it felt very performative,” she notes. “Once the initial interest faded, so did the support.” This realization has driven her to create designs with lasting impact rather than ephemeral trends.
In a bold move during September 2024’s New York Fashion Week, Adeola made the significant decision to pull out of the coveted event, even though she was officially placed on the Council Of Fashion Designers Of America CFDA, calendar. The ultimate goal for rising designers. “I want to prioritize the design over the spectacle,” she states, reinforcing her commitment to authenticity. This decision was not taken lightly, especially with the anticipation surrounding her presence on the calendar. “I realized I’m on my own timeline,” she adds, highlighting the importance of focusing on her vision.
Looking forward, Adeola is eager to unveil her upcoming collection, which is deeply rooted in her Nigerian heritage. “I want to bring a taste of Lagos to New York,” she says, signaling a return to her roots and a celebration of her culture. This collection promises to weave her personal narrative into her designs, offering a rich, authentic experience for her audience.
Among her standout creations is the innovative QT Heel, a bold fusion of stiletto and square toe that exemplifies her design ethos. “Fashion is not just about clothes; it’s about telling a story and connecting to where you come from,” Adeola shares, underscoring her belief in the power of fashion to convey identity.
As she approaches her tenth anniversary in the industry, Adeola credits her success to the perseverance she learned from her mother. “That’s the biggest lesson for me: perseverance,” she emphasizes. This lesson has guided her through challenges and helped shape her brand’s identity. Adeola is currently preparing to unveil her next collection, and there is an undeniable excitement surrounding her work—a reflection of her dedication to culture, craft, and creativity. “I’m grateful for where I am, but I know there’s always more to learn and explore.”’
Ahead, Adeola reveals new pieces from her upcoming collection, pulling out of fashion week, and the future of the Tia Adeola label.
GU: What three pieces from your collection are you most excited about right now?
Adeola: I’m really excited about the ruffled matching skirt set—it’s a celebration of my heritage. Also, the recent “Ruffle World” collection showcases my take on historical fashion. And of course, the QT Heel is a standout; it’s a fusion of modern and classic styles.
GU: You mentioned the importance of authenticity in your work. How do you stay true to yourself in an industry that can feel performative?
Adeola: I focus on my design philosophy and my roots. It’s about creating something that resonates with my story, not just following trends. I remind myself of why I started and let that guide me.
GU: Your decision to pull out of the CFDA calendar during NYFW was significant. Can you share your thoughts behind that?
Adeola: It was a tough decision, but I realized I needed to prioritize the design over the spectacle. I want to create on my own timeline, and this felt like the right move for my brand’s future.
GU: Looking ahead, what do you envision for the future of your label?
Adeola: I want to continue blending my Nigerian heritage with modern fashion. My goal is to create pieces that not only look good but also tell a story and connect people to their roots.