For decades, protective styles like box braids, twists, and knotless braids have been staples for Black women, offering a break from heat and manipulation. But what if the very hair we trust to protect us is putting our health at risk? A bombshell report by Consumer Reports reveals that some of our go-to synthetic braiding hair brands contain toxic chemicals linked to serious health risks—including cancer. And the worst part? These harmful substances don’t just affect those wearing the braids; they also pose a risk to hairstylists who handle the hair daily.
Synthetic braiding hair is typically made from plastic fibers like Kanekalon, which is popular due to its affordability and natural look. However, Consumer Reports tested popular brands and found that some contain endocrine disruptors and carcinogens—chemicals known to interfere with hormones and increase cancer risk. These toxins include substances like lead, phthalates, and toluene, which can be absorbed through prolonged scalp contact or inhaled as stylists work with the hair.
Black women are disproportionately exposed to harmful chemicals in beauty products—from relaxers and hair dyes to synthetic braiding hair. This study adds to growing concerns that the products marketed to us often come with hidden health risks.
For many, getting braids is more than just a style choice—it’s cultural, protective, and, for some, a financial livelihood. The idea that the very thing we use to maintain healthy hair could be harming our overall health is alarming. This issue also heavily impacts hairstylists, who handle synthetic hair all day. Repeated exposure to these toxins could put them at even greater risk than the people wearing the braids.
Black women already face major disparities in healthcare, from higher mortality rates during childbirth to increased risks of aggressive cancers like triple-negative breast cancer. The last thing we need is another environmental factor working against us—especially when it’s coming from something as routine as a trip to the braid shop.
Consumer Reports released their findings recently, sending shockwaves through the Black beauty community. While concerns about toxins in hair products aren’t new, this report specifically focusing on synthetic braiding hair has made many rethink their go-to styles.
James Rogers, the lead investigator behind the Consumer Reports study, explained why they decided to test synthetic braiding hair in the first place. He sat down with Essence to discuss the findings and the motivation behind the study. “We spoke to Black women—especially mothers—and asked which beauty products concerned them most. Synthetic braiding hair topped the list,” he says.
Rogers also has a personal stake in the issue—he’s a father to two Black daughters. His motivation for conducting this study was deeply rooted in wanting to ensure safer beauty options for them and the community at large.
“As a scientist and a father, I couldn’t ignore the potential risks that these products pose,” Rogers explains. “My daughters, like so many other Black women, love protective styles. But how can I advise them if I don’t have the data?”
The findings were alarming, with some braiding hair brands exceeding the Maximum Allowable Dose Level (MADL) for heavy metals. Rogers breaks down what that means and urges consumers not to panic, but to stay informed. “While the presence of these toxins in synthetic hair is concerning, the key issue is long-term exposure. We need more regulation and safer alternatives so that Black women aren’t forced to choose between beauty and health,” he explains.
Rogers clarifies that his team considered three different exposure models— inhalation, skin transfer, and consumption—when determining whether the MADL was exceeded. Ultimately, they decided that the oral/consumption model was the best way to measure MADL violations because the levels for inhalation and skin exposure were identical to the oral model (0.5 micrograms per day). He acknowledges that people are exposed in multiple ways but argues that the oral model alone was enough to prove violations—since the products exceeded the MADL so significantly. He welcomes discussion on alternative exposure models but stands by the validity of their approach, emphasizing that critics should bring data to the table if they want to challenge the findings.
Rogers also revealed that his team is conducting a second round of testing to assess hypoallergenic or non-toxic braiding hair and alternative products. He stressed the importance of transparency in labeling, noting that there are currently no regulatory rules requiring companies to be honest on their packaging. “In fact, if we have any information on our braiding hair packaging, we’re kind of lucky,” he admitted. He emphasized that his next major priority in this field is to provide women with alternatives—safer product choices based on Consumer Reports testing.
While the report has sparked debate over whether the risk is as serious as it seems, Rogers emphasizes that the presence of harmful substances—even in small amounts—raises important questions about safety in the Black hair industry. He suggests that braiders use braiding hair in a well-ventilated space, consider wearing gloves to protect their hands from the product, and even admits, “I’m a microbiologist, so I tend to go overkill, but I would even consider wearing a mask.”
Not everyone is convinced this report spells disaster for synthetic hair. Beauty chemist and TikToker Javon Ford has weighed in, arguing that some of the claims may be misleading. Consumer Reports tested 10 different popular synthetic braiding hair brands—including Darling, Sensationnel, and Shake-N-Go—for heavy metals that exceeded the Maximum Allowable Dose Level (MADL). However, the MADL they used was based on standards for drinking water, which applies to oral consumption rather than dermal exposure. The reasoning behind this approach is that braiders may eat after doing someone’s hair without washing their hands, and young children sometimes put their braids in their mouths.
So why is lead in the hair at all? Lead is an elemental substance, meaning it’s nearly impossible to eliminate entirely. However, its presence in synthetic hair raises concerns about long-term exposure. While the report might have some misleading aspects, it does highlight an important issue: Why aren’t there safer products for Black women in the hair industry? If this is the catalyst for change, then so be it.
Giving up braids altogether isn’t the answer—but we do need to be more intentional about how we protect our health while still embracing our culture. Here are some ways to keep braiding safely:
Wash Synthetic Hair Before Installation
Soak braiding hair in apple cider vinegar and warm water before using it. This can help remove some of the chemicals that cause irritation and buildup. Rinse thoroughly and let the hair air dry before installation.
Opt for Non-Toxic Alternatives
Brands like Rebundle have created plant-based, biodegradable braiding hair that eliminates the need for harmful chemicals. While pricier than Kanekalon, it’s a safer and more sustainable option.
Ventilate Your Space
If you’re a stylist or frequently braid your own hair, make sure to work in a well-ventilated area to reduce inhalation of any airborne chemicals. Wearing gloves can also help minimize direct skin contact.
Be Mindful of Irritation
If you notice excessive itching, scalp tenderness, or other allergic reactions after installing synthetic braiding hair, take it seriously. Not all discomfort is “normal.” James Rogers suggests doing a patch test before getting a full install by placing a small amount of the hair against your skin or scalp to check for any reactions. He also emphasizes the importance of speaking to a doctor or dermatologist if irritation occurs. Additionally, he encourages people to report any severe reactions to the FDA to help build a case for increased regulation of these products in the Black hair community.
This study is a wake-up call. Protective styles will always be a staple in Black beauty, but we must demand safer, non-toxic options. The beauty industry owes us more. Until then, we have to protect ourselves—because what good is ‘protective’ styling if it’s not protecting us?