Winter is upon us, and with the dizzying amount of serums, moisturizers, and acids available it’s hard to keep up with what’s right for your skin. Essence Girls United spoke to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mara Weinstein Velez, M.D at the University of Rochester Medical Center about how to keep your skin moisturized and healthy during the cooler months.
Q: Let’s start with the basics. What products do you need during the winter months?
Dr. Velez: I believe that there should be at least two routines. First thing in the morning. I recommend cleansing with a hydrating cleanser. So if you’re super oily, then you can stick to like gel, but something that’s not too drying. I would transition from your gel or foaming cleanser to a hydrating cleanser, so that would be like more of a creamy cleanser.
When you’re showering or washing your face, to use lukewarm water, like, definitely don’t turn on the really hot water, especially in the winter, because it can really suck all that moisture out of your skin. The next step for the winter would be to put on a hydrating serum.After the serum, again, I would suggest putting on a lightweight moisturizer… and then after that, really just sunscreen.
Q: What about your routine for night time? What should that look like?
Dr. Velez: The night is a little different, because sunscreens tend to be a little tricky to get off or on your foundation, or whatever else you put on this. I do recommend a double cleanse, and that can be a micellar water followed by that same creamy cleanser, just some sort of double cleanse to really make sure that you’re getting all the dirt and grime and stuff from the day off the face. But just because it’s winter doesn’t mean you should take away your actives. So if you’re using retinol or peptides, things for cell turnover into aging, still use them, but you can just sandwich them in between moisture.
Q: How do you combat dry skin and other skin conditions that are more common during the colder months?
Dr. Velez: Along with dry skin, we see a lot of irritation, right? So that looks like flaking, peeling, redness on the skin. So more dry skin, but also skin sensitivities. And that’s just because the moisture barrier is not repairing itself as it should. If you’re lacking products that add moisture back to the skin, it can’t repair itself better. But with hydration out of the skin, some people forget the extra steps. We actually see a condition called perioral dermatitis more often, which is yeast build up around the mouth and the eyes, and often, some dandruff in the hair. So this is a time where patients really need to think about what they’re putting on their skin, but also what they’re ingesting internally. This is when we start recommending things to help support the moisture barrier, like a ceramide-based vitamin or gummy.
Q: How much should your winter skincare routine change if you’re in a different part of the country, say Miami, Florida versus Buffalo, New York?
Dr. Velez: I think we need to be mindful of different climates. If you’re in Florida and there’s not a lot of fluctuation in the temperature or humidity, then there’s really no need to do a whole skincare revamp. If what you’re doing is working for you, then stick to it. I think there can be some cooler evenings if you’re putting on your heater and if you’re having to scarf and sweater up, then we might need to add an extra step, which would be an extra layer of hydration. So in my mind, that looks like a thicker cream and a double hydration technique, where you’re doing a hydrating serum followed by the moisture.
Q: These are also the months for copious amounts of holiday travel. What are some best practices to take care of your skin while traveling?
Dr. Velez: What we’re really trying to combat is dry air and UV. So if your windows open, or if you’re in the middle and that person won’t put down the window, then you’re getting UV exposure. And also you’re very dry. We usually don’t drink as much as we should on the plane because it’s hard to get up and go to the bathroom. My best hack is to bring a thermal spring water spray or rehydrating mist. I think that’s a really nice way to just kind of intermittently keep your skin hydrated.