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Home • Let's Talk About It

LTAI: Why Black Women Entrepreneurs Face a Double Standard When Scaling Their Beauty Brands

Explore the contrasting reactions to Hailey Bieber’s Rhode and Mielle Organics acquisitions, and why Black women founders deserve equal support in scaling their beauty brands.
LTAI: Why Black Women Entrepreneurs Face a Double Standard When Scaling Their Beauty Brands
By Nia Berkeley · Updated August 5, 2025

On May 28, 2025, e.l.f. Beauty announced its plan to acquire Hailey Bieber’s skincare brand, Rhode, in a deal valued at up to $1 billion. The agreement includes $600 million in cash, $200 million in e.l.f. stock, and an additional $200 million tied to performance milestones. Founded in 2022, Rhode achieved $212 million in net sales over the past year with just 10 products and no retail footprint. The announcement was met with near-universal praise.

Bieber was celebrated across social media for building a billion-dollar brand in under three years. Many called it a masterclass in modern entrepreneurship. Publications highlighted her strategic use of minimalism, aesthetics, and social media to drive sales. The reaction uplifted her as a visionary and applauded her ability to scale quickly.

In contrast, when Mielle Organics was acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2023, the public response was far more skeptical. Despite Mielle’s long-standing cultural impact, diverse product offerings, and commitment to educating consumers with textured hair, many fans expressed concern. Some worried the acquisition would lead to changes in product formulas or a disconnect from the brand’s original community. Others saw the sale as a betrayal of the brand’s roots.

This contrast reveals a deeper issue. When non-Black women scale and sell, their moves are often seen as smart business decisions. When Black women do the same, they frequently face criticism and accusations of “selling out.”

Both Rhode and Mielle represent success stories, but their paths differ significantly. Rhode is a celebrity-founded brand with a limited product range and a minimalist approach. Mielle earned its reputation by serving a deeply specific audience—particularly Black women with textured hair—through a wide range of collections, major retail partnerships, and years of community-focused marketing.

The reactions to their acquisitions tell two very different stories. One brand was welcomed into the corporate fold with praise and admiration. The other was met with suspicion and doubt.

This double standard reflects how society continues to view Black women in business. There is often pressure for Black founders to remain “community-owned” indefinitely, even when their long-term goals include growth, evolution, and access to greater resources. While loyal consumers’ concerns are valid—especially given past examples of diluted formulas and corporate erasure—there must still be space for founders to make strategic decisions without being villainized.

Black women have consistently shaped the beauty industry—from the trends we set to the gaps we fill. Yet when it comes to recognition, ownership, and support, the treatment is often inconsistent. Our innovation is celebrated, but only when filtered through someone else’s lens. This makes it all the more important to champion and protect Black-founded brands through every stage of their journey, not only when they feel accessible or niche.

As a generation proud of being progressive and conscious, Gen Z has the opportunity to shift this narrative. This means moving beyond surface-level outrage and taking time to understand the business realities behind these decisions. If equity is truly the goal, Black women must be given the same grace and support to scale and succeed, whether or not their names are tied to celebrity or trend cycles.

Acquisitions in beauty are rarely simple. They often provide the resources, infrastructure, and scalability that independent brands need to compete in a saturated global market. When only certain types of founders are encouraged to grow this way, it reinforces the inequalities that continue to shape the industry.

The solution lies in thoughtful, balanced engagement. This means asking questions, holding brands accountable, and expecting transparency, but also supporting Black women as they pursue the same milestones others are praised for reaching. Winning in the boardroom should be celebrated just as much as winning in the aisles. That is what real community support looks like.

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