While fall and winter bring an unmatched excitement to everyday life—thanks to iconic holidays like Thanksgiving and the endless styling opportunities that brisk temperatures bring—these seasons hold special significance for Black women. Sure, our beauty routines may last twice as long, with more Shea butter than usual in the mix, but one ritual stands apart from the rest: getting a silk press. This iconic style, which transforms curls into smooth, straight strands, is beloved year-round, but the colder months are prime time for a silk press.
Recently, the silk press has gained even more attention, particularly since Vice President Kamala Harris embraced the style as her signature look. Naturally, it’s also become a trending topic on TikTok, with creators and influencers posting their daily routines and appointment diaries in celebration of “silk press season.” While the trend is relatively new, silk presses have roots that date back to the early 1900s, when newly freed Black Americans straightened their hair to fit into a society that only accepted and granted full rights to white women. What was once a means of survival is now a powerful symbol of beauty and pride within the Black community.
Over the years, silk press techniques have evolved with the introduction of new tools and technology, but it can still be challenging to get it just right—especially if it’s your first time. GU spoke with natural hair care expert and founder of Her Own Beauty Salon, Zhané Thorpe, who shared her expert tips for achieving the perfect silk press. Though she now wears locs, Thorpe frequently used these techniques herself and still styles many of her clients with silk presses. Keep reading to learn how to maintain a silk press like a pro, plus all the essentials you need to recreate the salon experience at home.
What Is a Silk Press?
A silk press is one of the most traditional heat methods for straightening natural hair, and it allows you to achieve sleek, smooth strands without using harsh chemicals or treatments that could damage your curls. Thorpe explains that it’s a healthier alternative to other straightening methods, despite the common use of a pressing comb. “A pressing comb has a bit of a negative reputation because many people have experienced heat damage. However, not every stylist is trained in how to use one properly,” she says. “Many stylists claim that a silk press isn’t technically a silk press unless a pressing comb is used, but the term actually came from a play on words.”
Thorpe adds, “A silk press can be achieved with either a pressing comb and flat iron or just a flat iron. The key is in how you prep the hair to receive the heat.”
How To Achieve a Silk Press
Whether you’re getting a silk press at home or in the salon, the basic process is similar to any other hairstyle: the hair must be properly washed and conditioned. Thorpe emphasizes that healthy, hydrated hair is crucial for achieving that bouncy, silky, and sleek look. “A clean and well-moisturized scalp helps ensure you don’t damage your hair while achieving the style,” she explains.
If you’re new to the process, Thorpe recommends visiting a natural hair salon that specializes in silk presses to ensure your hair remains damage-free. She notes that professionals who are experienced in this style will know how to protect your hair while achieving a flawless result.
Pros and Cons of a Silk Press
A silk press is an excellent option for anyone looking to change up their look without compromising the health of their hair—especially for those who wear natural hairstyles full-time. Thorpe notes that your tight coils can be transformed into smooth, shiny strands in just a few minutes. Plus, if you use the right products, it’s easy to return to your natural curls when you’re ready. “Being a straight natural is a thing now, and I always tell my clients to consider their lifestyle and do what works best for them when it comes to their hair,” she adds.
However, Thorpe also warns that if done too often, a silk press can alter your natural curl pattern and make it looser over time, which could lead to breakage. “If your hair is severely dehydrated or if the temperature on your blow dryer or flat iron is too high, you risk damaging your hair, or even burning it,” she cautions.
Products for Silk Press Maintenance
Not all products are created equal when it comes to achieving the perfect silk press. To keep your hair looking bouncy and healthy, Thorpe recommends products from brands like Twelve12 and Paul Mitchell for cleansing and conditioning. “My favorite serums are Biosilk Silk Serum and Paul Mitchell’s Super Skinny Serum. Both add shine, smoothness, and protection while also repairing your hair,” she says.
Thorpe’s go-to tool for achieving sleekness is Eap Heat’s Ceramic Flat Iron, which has been a staple in her toolkit since launching her business.
In addition to using the right products, Thorpe stresses the importance of technique. To maintain your silk press at home, she suggests using 4 to 6 large flexi rods (gray or purple) every night, along with a bonnet or large satin scarf. “This helps keep your silk press voluminous and gives it heatless bouncy curls,” she explains. For those with longer hair, you can part your hair from ear to ear, combine two gray/purple flexi rods to create one large rod for each section, and wrap the sections overnight. This technique also works well for keeping your hair intact after a workout—just wear a sweatband to preserve your style.
More Silk Press Tips
Thorpe stresses that the key to a great silk press is finding a stylist who specializes in natural hair and is experienced with this technique. “I can’t stress this enough. I’ve seen so many women attempt it at home and end up severely damaging or burning their hair,” she says. When choosing a stylist, take note of how their silk presses look on clients with different textures and check how well their clients’ hair reverts back to its natural curl pattern. This will help you determine if they’re the right fit for you.
But selecting the right stylist is just part of the equation. You also need to maintain your hair between salon visits to keep your silk press looking its best. “Hydration treatments and regular washing are key, especially if you’re seeing a new stylist. I’ve noticed a significant difference in the results of my clients’ silk presses when they take care of their hair between appointments,” she advises. “Consistency is everything, ladies.”